Gulf Island Wineries
We sat on the deck of my partner Ian’s trawler, anchored off Prevost Island in a tranquil, sunset-lit bay, sipping Pinot Noir and eating local goat cheese made with truffles, a wine and food pairing that had been recommended by a local winemaker. To the south was Salt Spring Island where we had purchased both the wine and cheese earlier that day and our conversation turned to the wines we’d tasted and the people we’d met on our boating tour of British Columbia’s Gulf Island wineries.
Aside from the unique opportunity to combine wine touring and boating, the Gulf Island wineries offer some award winning wines. But even more fun is the exposure to local culture that only wine touring can bring -- the strong connection that winemakers have to the land and to their communities provides a window into the inner workings of the area. The winemaker will know where to get the local goat cheese and where the farmers’ market is. And on the Gulf Islands there’s a good chance that the winery will be a venue for local artists.
Our first stop was at Galiano Island, where we anchored at Montague Harbour to attend the island’s annual wine festival. The festival has been running for more than 15 years now and is a fundraiser for the Galiano Health Care Society. Rain that had threatened the afternoon conveniently held off and we spent a pleasant couple of hours tasting wine and eating snacks prepared by a small army of Galiano residents with a flare for cooking. In addition to getting a preview of the wines we would taste later on our tour we bought cheese from Salt Spring Island producers. We left Montague with whetted appetites and began our tour.
The Gulf Islands region – officially designated as a DVA (Designated Viticultural Area) by British Columbia’s appellation of origin system—is controlled by B.C.’s Vintner’s Quality Alliance (VQA). Climatically, the region is similar to Washington and Oregon and as a result, there are many similarities in both preferred grape varietals and in the wines produced. Because a number of the wineries are quite new and in some cases because the number of acres planted is low, many of the Gulf Island wineries also use grapes from other British Columbia wine areas, most often the interior but also from Vancouver Island.
Salt Spring Island Garry Oaks Winery
There are two wineries on Salt Spring Island and they happen to be conveniently located within walking distance of each other on Fulford-Ganges Road. Both are serviced by the local bus which can be caught at Ganges Harbour at the north end of the island or Fulford Harbour at the southern end. It is possible to anchor or tie up at marinas in either harbour and use the island’s taxi service. And for those who like a little exercise with their wine, you can cycle, as my partner Ian and I did, from Ganges (approximately 5 miles and up a rather long hill) or a couple of miles from Fulford Harbour.
Ian and I had a lovely meander through the vineyards at Garry Oaks with winery owner Marcel Mercier who was a charming host. As we walked through green alleys of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir vines, stopping to chat in the shade of the oak trees which are the namesake of the winery, our host explained that relatively speaking, for a Gulf Island winery, Garry Oaks is well established, now over ten years old. As a result of the number of harvests under their belts, he and his partner Elaine Kozak were noticing distinct characteristics in both the estate Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. When we tasted the Pinot Noir, in addition to cherry we noticed a bit of spice, one of the properties emerging from the terroir. I also enjoyed the taste of fruit in the Pinot Gris as well as a slight minerality, another unique characteristic.
As we talked about the numerous awards Garry Oaks has won at Oregon’s Northwest Wine Summit, Marcel explained that the estate wines are grown from grapes he has selected for the climate which is more similar to the Willamette Valley than it is B.C.’s interior. The combination of winemaking and viticultural knowledge have produced some sophisticated vintages made in the European style focusing on complex flavors and lower alcohol content as opposed to new world wines which tend to have higher alcohol content and big fruit flavours.
I asked what was recommended in terms of food pairing and Marcel suggested local spot prawns with Pinot Gris. We bought a bottle, chilled it in the ocean by weighing it down with our dingy anchor, and barbequed spot prawns and ate them with butter. The combination was as delicious as Marcel had promised.
Salt Spring Vineyards
We cycled less than five minutes to visit Salt Spring Vineyards. In the tasting room here, we met with sommelier Janelle Langford.
We sampled a number of estate wines including one called Millotage that I particularly liked, a blend of Marechal Foch and Leon Millot. We also enjoyed the Pinot Gris which Janelle had paired with local goat cheese and the Pinot Noir which followed.
Janelle told us that the winemaker has worked at the winery for seven years and focuses on working with grape varietals that suit the climate. Ninety percent of the grapes used are grown on the island, some on the property, and others in vineyards near Long Harbour. The ten percent that isn’t grown on the property is brought in from Naramata, a region in B.C.s interior.
The property has a picnic license and has picnic tables set up so that visitors can bring a lunch, buy a bottle of wine and enjoy the scenery while dining alfresco.
Pender Island, Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery
Our next stop was Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery on North Pender Island. We anchored at Port Browning and rode our bikes to the winery, a pleasant, somewhat hilly, 3 miles. There is taxi service on the island which can be called from either the Port Browning Marina or Poet’s Cove Marina on South Pender.
We arrived at the winery and met with the engaging Keith Watt, a former journalist and co-owner (with partner Barbara Reid). Keith purchased the property and developed it into vineyards and winery. He is passionate about winemaking and his attention to every detail of the construction of the winery has led to a spectacular space
All winery operations are housed in a two-storey structure built into the side of a hill. The wine is made on the top floor and gravity fed to the ground floor to the barrel room where it is aged. The barrels line the sides of one large room which is used for group events and form a dividing wall and a second room which serves as a tasting and sales area. The high ceilings, the barrels, and the mix of concrete and wood give the building a sophisticated contemporary aesthetic.
The day we visited, a number of paintings were displayed on the wine barrels to form a gallery featuring the work of a local artist. Keith is a proud supporter of the local arts scene and uses the winery to host art openings and concerts. This also involves the community with the winery, allowing locals to really get to know and appreciate the wine being produced. The barrel room is available for hire – Keith and Barbara provide catering and, of course, wine. There are plans for food service that should be operating by publication time.
Preparation of the land for the first vineyards began in 2001 when terraces were developed and miles of fence put up to keep deer out. The first harvest was 2006. The philosophy is to work with the cooler temperature varietals such as Pinot Noir, Shonberger, Riesling and Pinot Gris which have now been the basis of a couple of award-winning estate wines. Keith plans to continue producing wines made from Okanagan varietals which have also produced some award winners in both Canada and the US. We tasted a Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah blend that had lovely rich berry fruit flavours which Keith recommended as an accompaniment to red meat.
Saturna Island Family Estate Winery
The Saturna Island Family Estate Winery, established in 1995, with 60 cultivated acres, is the oldest and the largest of the Gulf Island wineries. It’s a short distance from Port Browning which is where we were anchored when we visited. We made an afternoon outing of our tasting, pulling up our anchor and then enjoying the short cruise over to Saturna, a wine tasting and lunch at the bistro. This was possible thanks to the dock that was recently built by the winery in Breezy Bay, a few hundred yards from the tasting room and bistro. There are also mooring buoys for winery customer usage by the dock. Other options for boaters are Lyle’s Harbour where there is a government dock and at the Winter Cove marine park.
We tied up the boat and strolled up a picturesque path that led to a dirt road taking us to the winery. On the way we passed a couple of winery buildings before arriving at the tasting room and bistro where we met Shane Miller, a sales representative and Assistant Manager. As he poured samples for us, he explained that the owners Larry and Robyn Page had purchased the property before deciding to plant grapes and develop the winery. A friend recognized the potential and after taking soil samples, Larry decided to grow grapes.
And the rest, as they say is history. Saturna Vineyards now produces 20,000 cases a year, a percentage of which is from B.C. interior wine regions as the winery has more capacity than what the vineyards can produce. We tasted a selection of estate and non-estate vintages and liked the variety. We enjoyed the estate grown Pinot Noir, a lighter style that stems from the cooler Gulf Islands climate. It has been a gold medal winner in international wine competitions.
The winery bistro is a treat under any circumstances but we especially appreciated it after a few weeks of cruising on less than gourmet fare.
Gabriola Island Winery and Distillery
Gabriola Island Winery and Distillery is the latest addition to the island wineries. Owners Fenix and Chris Theuerkon bought it in 2004 and are eagerly awaiting their first harvest from the vineyards planted in 2008. In the meantime, they are making wines with grapes sourced from Vancouver Island as well as the province’s interior. We appreciated Fenix’s winemaking skills as we tasted a Pinot Gris which had citrus and apple tones and then a Merlot, aged in French oak which was nicely balanced with berry flavours.
The couple have built a charming tasting and sales room which features a bar that was built from an arbutus tree felled on the property. The tasting room looks out over the vineyard. A second floor patio was still under construction when Ian and I visited but we could easily envision the spectacular sunsets that will be visible from the patio as it faces west with an ocean view.
We also enjoyed the products produced with the winery’s alembic pot still, a beautiful piece of functional art, made of hand-hammered copper. We tried the blushing brandy which is aged in emptied Merlot barrels. We enjoyed the light style and the caramel flavors as we ate the chocolate Chris paired with it. The Ancient Absinthe is also a treat. Served with water, the liquorice and mint tastes make it a perfect late-afternoon, post boating treat.
You can enjoy Gabriola Island Winery wines with lunch purchased on the premises. The winery has a picnic license as well as a picnic menu featuring local bread and cheeses as well as other deli offerings.
There are a number of options in terms of logistics for boaters wanting to visit the winery. Silva Bay offers both anchorage and marinas at the south end of the island. There is a cab service and you can rent motorbikes. We cycled – a ride for intermediates only as the round trip is around 25 miles.
Sidebar Information
Garry Oaks Winery
1880 Fulford-Ganges Road
Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
garryoakswine.com
250 653 4687
Salt Spring Vineyards
1700 block Fulford-Ganges Road
Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
saltspringvineyards.com
250 653 9463
Morning Bay Vineyard and Estate Winery
Harbour Hill Drive
Pender Island, British Columbia
morningbay.ca
250 629 8351
Saturna Island Family Estate Winery
P.O. Box 54
8 Quarry Road
Saturna Island, British Columbia
saturnavineyards.com
250 539 5139
Gabriola Island Winery and Distillery
575 Balsam Street
Gabriola Island, British Columbia
gabriolawinery.com
250 244 1648